When Mr. Caleb Adembesa Malongo saw media images of displaced and distressed members of the Ogiek community, who have lived in and around the Mau Forest for centuries, he got worried that the government would one day forcefully evict his community from the Maragoli Hills Forest.

“What came to my mind was that now we are next. The government will evict us. Where will we go?” said Mr. Malongo.

He was born in 1958 in Idabwongo, one of the three villages within Maragoli Forest. The other villages are Muguva and Lodonyi.

The three villages occupy about 66 hectares of the forest and have been designated by the government as trust land. That means that the land is not owned by the community but by the Kenya Forest Service.

Although I haven’t seen official data on the number of indigenous people in the forest, a 2019 count, according to Mr. Malongo, revealed 600 homesteads within the trust land.

“We have lived here for centuries. In the past, our population was small, but it has grown over the years. That’s why you’re seeing encroachment of the hills,” said Mr. Malongo.

By the hills being encroached, Mr. Malongo meant that the trustees to his ancestral land were bound to inhabit areas beyond the trust land in the future.

For now, the government and its partners are busy trying to rehabilitate the water tower. But there is little to no mention of the plight of indigenous people who call the forest home. And that’s what worries Mr. Malongo. 

I met him in Egago village before we embarked on a short journey. We passed by a few homesteads, then a church. Soon, l was hit by an invigorating cool breeze. We had landed in the forest.

“After the destruction, gullies started to form. Now that we are rehabilitating the forest, there’s an improvement,” Mr. Malongo told me as we stopped to sit on a continuous line of stones closely packed together to form a gabion.

Around us were thin, short guava trees scattered among newly planted indigenous trees on the rugged landscape. A short distance away, people were tending to their farms in a few homesteads dotted within the rolling hills of the forest. It was a fascinating view.

“This area was rehabilitated by members of the Egago conservation group,” said Mr. Malongo.

Since 2017, he’s been the chairman of the Maragoli Hills Community Forest Association (CFA), an organization leading conservation efforts in the expansive hills. It comprises 14 groups drawn from the indigenous people and the community from around the forest. Their work is primarily to provide seedlings, plant the trees, and then carry out weeding and gabion-making when called upon.

The Forest’s Prime Days

Mr. Malongo recalled growing up in a lush landscape. At the time, 32 streams meandered under an endless canopy of indigenous trees, shrubs, and wild fruits.

Hunger was far from his community as the land yielded enough food. So fertile was the forest’s soil that fertilizers were never used. Rain would come from all directions, he said. 

Even though people coexisted harmoniously with nature, one thing disturbed the peace and deeply worries the community today, given that its return is eminent - human-wildlife conflict.

It was not unusual for forest dwellers to run into trouble with their wild counterparts. First off, monkeys would destroy their crops. But in 1990, one incident did irreversible damage to the collective psychology of Mr. Malongo’s community. He remembered, in graphic detail, how hyenas killed someone before eating the body in Gilwatsi, one of the villages adjacent to the forest.

I was laughing too until he interjected as if to correct himself: “For someone enlightened, someone who went to school like me, l cannot hate a tree. For anyone to hate a tree, they must be cursed.”

He had a reason to be proud of his education. It’s not something he acquired easily. For starters, it was not free, but his family was poor. There was no school within the forest, so he would walk several kilometers to Inavi Primarily School in a neighboring village, where he graduated in 1974.

Having done well, he was to join a boarding school for his secondary education where he would pay sh450 per year, but again, he couldn't because of poverty. He joined his dad in Nairobi, where he attended a day school instead. The fee was sh.50 per year.

Mr. Malongo said the rates of innumeracy and illiteracy increased in his community due to the poor infrastructure. He contended that he would not have acquired any education if his dad had not worked in Nairobi.

The Forest Receives Recognition and a Revamp To Its Demise

As Mr. Malongo transitioned in his studies, the forest underwent its share of transformative developments. By the time he graduated from high school in 1978, the government established a primary school in his village - Kisingilo.

Before that, the colonial regime recognized the forest as government property in 1957. This followed a gazette notice issued by Governor Sir Evelyn Baring on behalf of Queen Elizabeth II.

Then, in 1962, the colonial government launched a forceful forest rehabilitation. New species of trees, particularly pines, were added to the hills despite opposition from the indigenous people and the community. 

“The people opposed the project because they assumed that having more trees would result in a surge in human-wildlife conflict-related cases,” said Mr. Malongo.

By 1992, having attained self-rule, Kenya had turned 29, one year shy of the age of the new trees. The forest had changed, and so had the region. Vihiga was now a district headed by a District Commissioner (DC). It was a powerful position.

“The trees had matured, and it was reasonable to harvest them, but the approach of the DC was wrong. He came in with police officers and power saws, and they began cutting down the trees. Then, they carried timber away, leaving the community with nothing. Remember, the community had been forcefully mobilized to plant the trees,” lamented Mr. Malongo.

The DC at the time was Mr. Dave Mwangi. It is important to note that while l didn't interview Mr. Mwangi for this story, he has denied allegations of wrongdoing concerning the Maragoli Hills Forest in the past.

The DC’s move, Mr. Malongo said, opened the floodgates to wanton logging and mindless forest vandalism. So angry were the indigenous people and their neighbors that they, too, got into the woods to grab for themselves a share of their sweat - the trees. 

Soon, the woodland was being attacked from all sides. The destruction was widespread. Mr. Malongo remembered meeting people in the forest, from as far as Nyanza and Bunyore, felling trees, preparing timber, or burning charcoal. 

In three years, the forest and the unsavory wild animals were gone. But most of the intruders stayed put, grabbing plots for cultivation. Most of them planted maize, sorghum, and millet. And they reaped big, given that the soil had been fertile and untouched.

Unfortunately, the joy from large harvests was short-lived. By 1998, the soil had lost much of its nutrients to erosion thanks to the unhindered flow of rainwater through gullies. Mr. Malongo joked that the nutrients benefited the Egyptians because they were washed into Lake Victoria before winding up in the River Nile.

His homeland changed dramatically. It became hotter, and the air was not as fresh as before. Rain became scarce, and most rivers gradually dried up before disappearing. The land was craggy and cracky.

A Ray of Hope For The Forest and Ingenious People

For 12 years, Mr. Malongo and his community were confronted with the harsh reality of a disturbed biodiversity. They resorted to synthetic fertilizers, but to their disappointment, they didn’t compensate for the lost nutrients.

At first, a team from the Kenya Forestry Research Institute, KEFRI, toured the hills and collected some soil for testing. They wanted to know the right tree species for the land. Later, they planted some trees on a demonstration plot covering 6 hectares.

Then, the Vihiga County government, under Governor Wilber Ottichilo’s leadership, joined in, mobilizing locals to plant trees covering 30 acres. The national government was not left behind either, as the Ministry of Energy led planting trees on another 150 hectares of forest land.

Governor Ottichilo’s administration also established an office within the gazetted land. The office houses the Community Forest Association leadership and staff from the Kenya Forest Service and the county government.

As l sat down with Mr. Malongo early in February 2024, almost half of the 461-hectare degraded forest had been reforested, thanks to the county government and its partners.

But as the forest leaves the legacy of destruction behind, Mr. Malongo said that the government would soon be confronted by new challenges - encroachment and, eventually, conflict between the government and his community over the issue.

“There’s a danger that people will invade into forest land. The best thing is to relocate them. While some could be reluctant to relocate, they can still welcome the move after negotiations with the government,” said Mr. Malongo.

He lamented that although the government has in the past given assurances that the trust land belongs to his community, the indigenous people cannot use the property to acquire bank loans or sell it if they want to move elsewhere.  

“The people living here have national identity cards, indicating that they are Kenyans. They fully participate in national elections, so their concerns should be looked into,” said Mr. Malongo.

He implored the government to deal with the issue amicably.

“I see a very big difference between the Mau Forest and Maragoli Hills. In Mau, some people grabbed land and fraudulently acquired title deeds. But here, this is our ancestral land... The government should come up with a very good solution to ensure that people are not harassed,” said Mr. Malongo.

I reached out to Dr. Richard Boiyo, the Vihiga County government Chief Officer, Environment,  regarding Mr. Malongo's concerns. 

He said that while the indigenous people's worries are justified, they will be relocated humanely because the forest will be rendered "inhabitable" to them once it's fully recovered.

"The government is very understanding. They look at the pros and cons before relocating somebody. I do not think the government wants to hurt (the indigenous people)," said Dr. Boiyo.

He urged the indigenous community to continue supporting restoration efforts in the forest, saying that a decision about their fate would be made when "the right time" came.

As Mr. Malongo and l  prepared to leave the forest, one of the rivers in the hills continued to splash imposingly, unprovoked and unhindered by his concerns. It was a sign that the forest was clawing back to glory.

“The water table will come up. The soil will regain its fertility,” Mr. Malongo said happily, noting that over 90 percent of the trees planted were indigenous and required less water.

“Do you fear being evicted forcefully?” I asked him. And the hope in his eyes quickly faded.

“Yes!” He answered emphatically.

As l got off the boda-boda at the gate to the Mbale Municipal Grounds, the loudspeaker blared Maragoli traditional music, setting the perfect mood for the day ahead. 

I had been looking forward to this day, and it had come: December 26, 2023. I was here to attend the annual Maragoli Cultural …

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Mr. Wilson Koinange never imagined owning a coffee plantation. He is 83 years old now but aging. This was reserved for the white colonial masters under whose brutal regime he grew up. At the time, Africans were subservient to their White counterparts.

"We were not allowed to keep dairy cows or any other exotic cattle breeds. These were owned by White people, and only they could grow cash crops such as tea and coffee," Mr. Koinange tells me.

We are sitting in the pensioner's living room at Makanya Village near Mudavadi Girls' High School, Madzuu, in Vihiga County, Kenya. Listening intently are his wife and two of his children. Initially, they are particularly concerned about his "interviewee credentials," given his age. A few moments into the interview, however, the children quietly leave the room, clearly impressed by their dad's performance. Their mother follows them shortly.

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Vihiga County is a region located in the former Western Province of Kenya. The county has an area of 563 km² and a population of 554,622 (2009 census) making it one of the smallest counties in Kenya by land area. Vihiga County is bordered by Nandi to the east, Kisumu County to the south, Siaya County to the west, and Kakamega County to the north.

Vihiga …

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We are pleased to announce the launch of our new YouTube channel. Our debut video takes you through the landscapes of Mbale in Vihiga County, offering a glimpse into its charm, cultural richness, and hidden gems.

Click below to dive in to an immersive experience that we hope you find engaging and inspiring.

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If there is to be a competition for a model local poultry farmer in Kenya, then Chanderema Poultry Farm in Vihiga County will score a series of “A”s.

The Turkey “A”

The first “A” is earned in turkey farming. It is not common to find a farmer who has concentrated so much effort on breeding turkeys in Western Kenya. Those who have kept them have a population of between 5 and 10. However, on the Chanderema Farm, they have mature turkeys in two large holding shades, a large open pen full of turkeys, and some rooms with the birds in various levels of maturity.
The main reason turkey farming is not widespread in Kenya is that they are eaten mainly during celebrations. Except for hotel menus, families buy and eat turkeys during Easter and Christmas. Many people are used to slaughtering a goat or sheep on other occasions or for meat. While most people know how to slaughter and prepare goat, sheep, and chicken for cooking; few know how to prepare turkey. That is why Chanderema offers for sale turkeys in different states: as take away live; or if the client orders, they slaughter and prepare them ready to cook. This includes dressing the birds, says Mr. Alumada Mbato the Chanderema farm’s Development Manager.

He goes on to explain the advantage of turkey meat: turkey is just like chicken. Only its meat is sweeter than chickens. It tastes like chicken and goat meat. However, compared to goat meat, turkey meat has smaller and fewer bones in weight-by-weight proportions. When you subtract the head, feet, and skin when slaughtered, a small goat that costs Kshs 7,000 and provides 10-12 Kilograms of boneless meat; while a turkey which costs Kshs 3,500 will provide 7-9 Kilograms of boneless meat. So, you get more value for money and more meat on the table when you slaughter a turkey. At Chanderema Poultry Farm they rear four types of turkeys: the rare pure white-feathered, the black, the black/white, and the spotted. One can buy as many turkeys as they need, both for breeding, for hotel, and home consumption.

The Geese “A”

Many people consider Geese as decorative birds and keep them purely for aesthetical and ornamental value. While appreciating this, Mr. Alumada explains a misconception that it is the only purpose of keeping Geese. Geese have very sweet meat. In some communities, you are considered a special guest if they slaughter for you a Goose.
Chanderema Farm rears a large flock of Geese for sale to those who need them for breeding and for the table. Mr. Alumada also says that if you keep Geese, they kill and hound small pests out of your compound. “You won’t find rats, snakes, and small pests wandering in the compound or on the fence. They kill and devour them. Geese are also natural security guards against birds of prey that attack chickens. Those birds don’t come to homes where Geese are reared. On a more secure front, Geese, like dogs, can identify strangers and alert residents with loud agitation noise.

The Engoko “A”

Before they ventured into Poultry farming, the Chanderema Farm investors carried out thorough research. They identified a market demand which was not being satisfied. Mr Luvaga, the Sales and Marketing Director gave us the laydown of it.
In Western Kenya, among the Luhyia community, also known as Mulembe Nation; every time there is a function, Engoko (chicken) plays a vital role. Engoko is used during traditional cultural functions and for food on the table. This is during weddings, funerals, prayers, family unions, and annual religious functions. He estimates that during one function, 60-100 birds are required both for slaughtering and carry-away live birds by family visitors during cultural events. The family or committee hosting the event have a hard time collecting such a large number of chicken. They have to go around homes and markets and even travel as far as Kapsabet in Uasin Gishu County to buy them. It is not only time-consuming and expensive; but there is a disadvantage that some of the chickens they buy are sick and spread diseases into many homes either from handling them, through contact with clothes, and their waste after slaughter.

“In fact, when the host opens the store or bathroom where they have kept the chicken overnight, sometimes they find half of them are already dead!” explains Jack.
Hence the investors (who are now the directors of Chanderema Farm) started poultry farming to meet this demand for chicken. A client can now order or buy any number of chickens they want from one place: the Chanderema Farm. “We have customized solutions for chicken supply at balance one price across board. Whatever number and type of chicken one needs: Idaywa, Inyavuli, Isu, Likukuvale. Chicken from this farm are reliable, credible, and vaccinated both for breeding and consumption.

They have flocks in different levels of maturity: “this is carefully controlled breeding; so that at no time in the year will the customer miss the chicken they need. By the time one lot matures and is being sold, the next flock is ready to replace it.”
When we visited, a client Madam Violet Anzigale came to purchase some chicken for breeding. She said she has learned a lot from the farm and that poultry farming can create a lot of employment in Vihiga County.

The other method of doing it right is they have built proper chicken housing with inlaid floor plastic mesh for filtering out chicken droppings so that the room is ever clean. Plastic mesh does not scratch and damage the chicken feet and toes. The rooms are labeled according to their utilization with KIRITU ROOM being the Showroom/Sales point for mature birds.

Inside each room, there is water piping fixed around walls with numerous drinking nipples. Outside in the compound are several huge water tanks spread around the compound.

“Water, water” explains Alumada, “some farmers forget that animals and fowls need access to good clean water all the time; or they underestimate it. We have made sure we store enough water for all seasons. This is one item we monitor constantly and consistently.”

On the farm is also a water pond and sandpit for the birds the Turkeys and Geese.
We also saw their store full of fowl feed to the brim. “Yes, we are ever prepared and well-stocked. The fresh and green feed is grown around the farm.”
Western Kenya is a big, big market, for chicken. It is one place where Engoko is the favourite food for all occasions. We can’t satisfy this market from this farm alone. We want other residents of Vihiga to learn from us and invest in the same. But, they must do it right.” Luvaga says.

The Clean “A”

On our walkabout, we were using paved paths as clean and maintained as in any major hotel. With water everywhere, green lawns, and Solar floodlights dotting the compound this can easily be called the Hotel for Fowls.

There is an office where the farm management strategic plan is outlined and records for each function are meticulously kept. Alumada informs us that they are available to provide group training for poultry, livestock, and agriculture. They have the tools, including projectors. Mr. Luvaga has been providing resource training to several groups up to Busia County.

The Gold Fishpond “A”

The Hope Pond as it is aptly named on the farm is a heart-shaped fish pond. It is surrounded by several benches installed inside as a meeting area. The beauty about it is the serene atmosphere it breathes that settles the heart and mind. The pond is designed as a spot for personal meditation. The pool’s water reticulation system is run by a solar pump. When switched on, it creates a wonderful waterfall and spray pattern over the pool.  Mr. Alumada tells us the pond is full of fish, around 300 mature Tilapia awaiting harvesting and ornamental Gold Fish which they sell.

The Ostrich “A”

It is strange how chasing after one rabbit can make you catch an entirely different animal. We heard about the Farm at Kiritu with Ostriches from Professor Mary Misia Kadenyi who had taken her family on a tour there. When she told us about the Ostriches in Vihiga, we were very intrigued and set out to bring you the report on mulembeonline.com. We are ever ahead of news from Western Kenya for you. Imagine our total surprise when we stumbled upon this thriving poultry farm with modern farm management techniques right in the heart of Vihiga County! We even spotted Kanga (Guinea Fowl) being bred on the farm.
The farm is run by three directors: Mr. Luvaga – Sales and Marketing, Madam Midika – Environmental and Mr Alumada – Business Development. Their motto is “CPA …Forever!”

About 3 km from Kiritu is a sight to behold. It is the holiest of the holy sites in Vihiga according to the local population. People come from far and wide to worship at this shrine. Some come to these two rocks, which stand 300 metres apart, to offer prayers, others to seek divine intervention in whatever is afflicting them, while others come out of curiosity. The village leader Mama Edith Mboga told us.
Some come to fetch the “holy water” from the rock.

The latest prominent visitor to the site is Her Ladyship Margaret Kenyatta, Kenya's First Lady, who paid homage to the site during her tour of Vihiga County.
This site is the Givera stone site also known as the “Jesus Footprint”. What makes this rock shrine such a unique divinity?

Vihiga County is home to numerous holy sites. The origins of some of the populous religions have their headquarters in Vihiga County. According to Dr Kisato of Mungoma Chemist, Mbale town, a dozen religions that operate in Kenya have their roots deeply etched in the souls of Mulembe Nation.

• Some prominent religions with origins in Vihiga County are:

• Pentecostal Assemblies of God (PAG) - headquartered at Nyang'ori

• Israel Nineveh - headquartered at Jebrok

• Friends Church - headquartered at Kaimosi

• African Divine Church - headquartered at Boyani

A couple of other churches have their headquarters dotted in Western Kenya. Dr. Kisato opines that the Jesus Rock Shrine is the holiest of the traditional and natural holy sites in Vihiga.

The Jesus Footprint Rock Site

Located by the roadside from Kiritu to Maziguru it is just a stone's throw from the newly constructed bridge. The bridge is on the valley that separates two constituencies. On the Eastern ridge is Sabatia Constituency and on the Western ridge is Vihiga constituency. There is an earth road that dissects the valley off the main Mbale-Hamisi road at Chango and joins Majengo-Mudete road at Kiritu. One can therefore reach the site from all four sides of the compass; which represented equal distance from the directions of Mudete, Hamisi, Mbale, and Majengo.

From a distance, it just looks like a large outcrop of granite rock which are in plentiful in the landscape of Vihiga County. Granite rocks are the hardest to crack and shape. As you get closer, you notice that it is shaped like a large flat bowl placed bottom-up on the ground covering about 100sq metres with the eastern side slopping toward the river. It looks like an ideal and quiet place to have a picnic.

Cutting across the stone running south-north is a colourful 10 cm belt of brown and gold colour. As one approaches the rock from the southern end about 3 steps from the edge of the rock on the left side of the belt is a deep impression on the rock, “This is the left foot of Jesus” explains our guide Christine Gulenya in halting but clear English. She does not delve into the matter behind the step.

Then she steps to the edge and begins walking across the rock beside the colourful belt. The rock rises gradually for about 3 metres then levels and eventually slops sharply in the last 2 metres. Walking beside the belt barefoot, Gulenya explains that this is the path Jesus followed. As we walk along this hallowed ground, Gulenya walks back a few steps, then descends the rock in the slopping eastern direction. At the North Eastern corner is a crack where a small pool of clear water is nestled, “this pond does not dry all year round” says Gulenya. “This is not rain water, it comes deep from the rock. This is the water which revelers say is ‘holy’ and is usually scooped and carried away by visitors and those who come to pray at this site.”

Finally, Gulenya climbs to the centre of the rock where there are some inscriptions of numbers. She traces out the two sets of numbers. At one spot is numbers ‘1’ and ‘0’ and a metre apart is the number “8”.

The Coffin and Bread/Fish Site

About 300m South of the Jesus Footprint Rock up-valley is another expansive rock outcrop about twice the size of the footprint rock.

Again here are mysterious shapes and imprints spread over the rocks’ surface. What strikes you as you reach the site is a huge boulder resting its ‘head’ on another rock. It is as if pall bearers carrying a coffin got tired and stopped to rest. Or perhaps it “tested their faith” and they abandoned it there. Then there are those who believe that it is the final burial place of some entity like the pharaohs of Egypt. The boulder erringly resembles the shape of a coffin including its size and shape. One shoulder of the rock coffin is chirped off.

One of the mysteries of this rock is apparently, it does not want to be disturbed. Our Guide Christine Gulenya tells us of several attempts to relocate the rock which failed. She claims the chirped shoulder was caused when a local stone harvester attempted to crack the coffin and make ballast for sale. However his effort was short-lived as he fell sick and died within a week. Since then no one has attempted to crack it. Actually there is a piece of the shoulder lying at the bottom of the coffin as if to confirm the stone harvester’s folklore.

Besides the coffin, the top of the rock formation has four impressionable features. One of the shapes she says the residents interpret as a shield.  Also as she shows the other two impressions which are close to each other the bread and fish that Jesus used to feed his disciples. The last impression is a flat tablet which she calls the bench where they sat.

Shrine

According to Edith Mboga the village headwoman, many people come in groups either to view pay homage, or pray at the site of the holy rocks. Followers of several sects pay annual pilgrims including Legio Maria, Holy Spirit, and Elijah Masinde. In the early days, religious leaders from a Prophet in Isukha used to frequent the site.

Western Kenya Tourism Circuit

There is “some wild animal” in Kenya's tourism sector called “Western Kenya Tourism Circuit” which was coined over 20 years ago. When you hear of it, you imagine exotic and exciting travel around the Western region of Kenya. The reality is that it is a just mirage created by the doyens given the responsibility of developing tourism in Kenya.  Each subsequent team of government officials tasked with promoting tourism Kenya-wide tourism will revisit the “Western Kenya Tourism Circuit” and produce very impressive paperwork.

Then it remains just that: Paperwork. They retreat back to the well-beaten paths of Nairobi, Mount Kenya, Coast, and the National Parks. At least in those areas, they can safely generate annual figures of foreign visitors. This is Kenya, which wants to work hard to develop unbeaten paths.

The reality is that if the dream of the “Western Kenya Tourism Circuit” is to be realized; the ten counties involved have to pull on their gloves, wear gumboots and get the job done. These counties include Vihiga, Kakamega, Busia, Bungoma, Trans-nzoia, Siaya, Kisumu, Homa-bay, Kisii, and Migori.

Vihiga County has many places of interest. However, they are not officially identified and developed to attract visitors tourists. Vihiga also has lots of cultural interests; including the fact that many religions being practiced in Western Kenya, Nyanza and the Rift Valley have their shrines in Vihiga County which can be developed as pilgrim centres.

One wonders when such sites as Jesus Rock Shrine, Mahiga-ga-Vihiga, and Mung’oma will be declared Vihiga County's National monuments.

The first missionaries to come to Africa faced much hostility in other regions of Kenya. It was only at Vihiga that they met a friendly community with an organized kind of worship similar to Christianity; they settled here.

I set out to find how Hon. Milemba, Jeremiah Omboko; the Member of Parliament for Emuhaya Constituency in Vihiga was voted the most performing MP in the Kenya National Assembly for the year 2019-2020 in a survey conducted by Infotrak Pollster.

Countytrak Elected Leaders Popularity Index rated Hon. Milemba, who doubles as the chairperson of Kenya Union of Post Primary Education Teachers (KUPPET), with a score of 75.4 percent.

The Constituencies Development Fund, established through the CDF Act, 2003 is a public-funded kitty that targets development projects at the grassroots level. It is one of the several devolved funds set up by the Kenya Government to mitigate poverty and to harmonize the spread of development throughout the country.

In order to get the feel of the place, I arrive earlier at the Emuhaya NG’CDF and Parliamentary offices. There is one car and two motorcycles in the parking lot. The Askari (gateman) a jovial Mzee tries to chat with me about the weather; but since I do not live in the area, I am short on contribution. He switches to the social issues and; when we realise my grandmother and his mother share a blood relationship, we banter along jovially.

People are arriving, few by car, many are dropped outside the gate by Bodaboda motorbike taxis; others just like myself, walk-in. Most greet us with the famous Luhyia Nation: “Mulembe” greeting, others just wave at us. Some arrivals stop to enquire from the Askari if so-and-so official has arrived, and the Askari replies in the positive or gives his standardized reply; “they will be along soon, just go and wait at the office a little while.” A small crowd is soon gathered outside the two-floor CDF and Parliamentary offices block fifty metres from the gate.

From my little chat with the gatekeeper, I learn that there is an entrepreneur woman who makes and installs special Jikos (cooking stoves) in homes. I have learned that Mr. Hellam Ainea, the official I am planning to talk to; is usually in the office the whole day. Since I did not have a time-booked interview, I decided to multi-task and visit this Jiko-maker first.

I am back two hours later. The crowd outside the CDF office has thinned considerably. I learn that many of them had gone into the training hall behind the main office block. My journalist curiosity would have led me there; however, the hall and the people inside are clearly visible from where I am standing outside this main building. This is some sort of open plan office design that trans-crosses from one building into another.

We, the clients/visitors are standing or seated haphazardly on plastic chairs at the veranda outside the office block, maintaining social distancing. Shortly, a trendily dressed young man, complete with Mohawk hairstyle and earphones; pops up at the far end of the visitors’ crowd and walks from one person to another engaging in low-toned conversation. I notice he directs each one where to go.

He reaches where I am seated “how about you sir; ‘nikusaidieje?”. I inform him I have come to have a talk with Mr. Hellam. He assures me Mr. Hellam will be around shortly; to wait. Before he moves to the next person; I ask him if there is a place I can do my work while I wait. He beckons me to follow him and carries my chair, which he places in the foyer just inside the main entrance. He points at the electric socket on the wall; “here sir. Karibu.’ For a moment I hesitate, but looking around me, I realise that nobody is concerned with me.

This is when I realise that everyone is doing their own things as if they all belong or live here. There is a soft sense of belonging, which I decide to give a try and adapt. I plugin and do my work. The cleaner mama with bucket and mop comes by doing her work. When I hit eye contact with her; we almost Mulembe each other simultaneously. Since she does not ask what I am doing here; I ask her how will I know when Mr. Hellam arrives, as I do not know him. They will inform you, she answers; pointing at the back of Mohawk officer, who having completed his round was going upstairs.

As I speck away at the keyboard, several people pass by heading up the stairs. All seem to know where they are going. Only one couple stops to ask me their way; I point them in the direction of the cleaner who has moved along into the corridor on my left.

I am so engrossed in my work that I hardly notice when a wave of people walk past me going up the stairs. Only some sixth sense feeling makes me glance to the right and I realize the few people who were still outside the building are no longer there. I am alone.

Even as I begin folding up my things, the cleaning mama reappears from the left corridor and informs me they are calling me. I glance up the stairs and again see the receding back of Officer Mohawk. I ask the cleaner mama for the direction to Mr. Hellam’s office. She tells me there is the receptionist upstairs.

I expect the receptionist to shoot at me many usual questions; Kenya government office style. Instead, it is a one-sentence: Mr. Hellam? Straight down that corridor, the open door you can see directly from here.

Reaching the open door, I commit my first mistake. I wait outside the open door. I do not knock because I can see the people inside… and well, they must be seeing me.  Two people walk out, three people breeze past me and disappear into the bowels of the office to the left. What is it about these people’s way of doing things; I ask myself as I follow them and realise the office is large. Frankly, it takes a bit of conditioning to do things differently. They have formed a system of doing things differently from what we Kenyans are used to.

As I enter, I observe the Mulembe etiquette; just loud enough to be heard by all occupants in the room. In that brief eye contact, I do a smooth one-sentence introduction to Mr. Hellam and state my mission. He nods and acknowledges our previous telephone contact. I wave my camera at him and mime the request: may I take some photos? He nods in acceptance. There is an empty chair by the corner of the wall; I excuse myself and become the observer.

TAKE ONE

Mr. Hellam is at his desk, attending simultaneously to two clients seated in front of the desk. Behind him, there is an official trying to use the printer on the extension table by the window. He seems to be experiencing some hitches and Hellam is multitasking instructions to him. To the left is a lady holding a bunch of files; she is discussing about some meeting she is going to. Later I am told this is Roselyne Ang’ana;  the Chair of the Bursary Sub-Committee. Another officer is by the left side of the desk corner bent over a laptop. The average age of officials in the room is 28-30 years.

The cleaner mama has moved in with her implements; and is busy on the far back of the room near the bookshelf. I take a photo aiming to capture the officials in the room. The camera flash momentarily breaks the low mummer in the office.

TAKE TWO

The computer on Mr. Hellam’s desk is currently the busiest entity. I realise most clients here are checking about their education bursary applications. Whatever answers they receive, I do not see any faces of disappointment. I take note to ask how they manage to satisfy apparently all the applications with funds they receive.

Mistake Number two: I expected Mr. Hellam to spare a few private moments for a one-to-one chat. Then it occurs to me the way things operate in this office, there are no private moments. I occupy the next vacated chair at the front of his desk and go for my pound of flesh of his time. After the bonding questions, I request to see some of the CDF projects that contributed to winning their MP of Emuhaya, Hon. Omboko so many accolades. The other officials; who are all listening as they work turn and look at each other in amazement.

Mr. Hellam points at the person with laptop on the desk: “I believe Mr. Ayub here is the right fellow to assist you with what you want.”

Mr. Ayub Ebole introduces himself as the Clerk of Works. He carries his laptop to the printer and runs out a two-page printout, which he hands to me.

“This is the list of the latest ongoing and completed projects. Depending on your time, you can visit any or all of them. So which projects do you want to view today?”

My third mistake was my thinking they had specific flagship projects they will are proud to show off; how wrong. I count 14 projects on the list. They range from Tertiary Colleges, Primary and Secondary Schools, Sub-county headquarters, and Police Posts.

“I want to begin with the best of them all.” I insist.

“There are all good; none is better than the other” Replies Ayub.

I randomly tick three projects on the list. I leave the office tagging behind Mr. Nelson Mandela the G.I.S. (Geographic Information Science officer) who is tasked to take me on the tour of the projects  ‘of my choice’ from that list.

As a parting shot, I stop by the receptionist, re-introduce myself, and request her name and telephone number. Such contacts are important for planning future interviews. The expected standard questions like why you want to have my number; but Ann Atemo complies and says: you are welcome back to Emuhaya, sir.

My mission was to get the background picture of the member of the parliament’s work before I tackle him is on course. Behind every successful leader, there has to be a committed team he relies on. I still have to talk to the CDF Manager, Mr. Charles Omuchilo; so by the look of things, there is more to come. Stay tuned for the next article

My observation as I leave the offices is of the latent synergy between the officials and the MP’s constituents. They are like members of the same family in a home. You would not have believed you are in the government’s office. Right from the gate, you set the feeling that you have arrived

Many people are doubtful of the existence of philanthropic projects in Mulembe Nation (Western Kenya). This is because, unlike in other parts of the country, they are not widely publicized in the media. This lack of publicity is one part deliberate (the left hand should not know what the right hand is giving). The other reason might be the deep entrenchment of religious values in the Mulembe society. Even before the advent of modern religion in Western Kenya in the 18th century, the residents who are known as Luhya were among the most religious people in Africa. Until today their customs and taboos are closely related to Biblical histology.

Among the Luhya, generosity and sharing among relatives and the community are very strong virtues and a deep reflection of society’s values. But shouting about it is frowned upon as conduct unbecoming. Some actually believe that by publicizing the good deeds, the giver loses the inherent blessing. Unknowingly, this silent denial prevents others from participating in ongoing philanthropic projects or initiating new ones.

The Saide Community Library

When I set out to write about the library for young readers, I did not know I would have the problem of choice. Reporting about the library you are spoilt for the choice of what to write down and what to leave out. The Saide Community Library was established in 2013 by Beatrice Lukalo in memory of her parents Ezekiel Lukalo Aluda and Josephine Kaveza Lukalo. The other surprise was that Beatrice does not even live in Vihiga County. Despite living in the diaspora she unselfishly established this project in Vihiga Country.

From having a rich historical background, the library has so many “Firsts” in Vihiga and probably in the whole of Western Kenya.

First, I was, to say the least, amazed in such a rural countryside setting, to stumble upon a fully-fledged library with around 3,500 books and modern a number of electronic book readers. Some of the books were offered by Friends of Africa. Patrons pay only 10 Ksh and 20 Ksh to use this library, another “First”. Those who cannot pay the 10 bob fee are given special consideration and the availability of the books for free.

The Saide Community Library is located in a strategic location a few meters from Chavakali Centre at the junction of Kisumu-Kakamega and Kapsabet/Eldoret junction. From the door, you view the newly constructed highway exchange for vehicles traveling to Kapsabet/Eldoret from the Kakamega-Kisumu highway. This structure gives the area an updated look.

Serving Local Vihiga Children

Beatrice Lukalo’s mission was to provide a center for children to access knowledge within their environment. From the onset, the library became very popular for children from around Chavakali. As the word went around, more pupils came from far to the library for reading and reference. Children spend quality time at the library. It has been particularly useful to parents during the school closure due to the Corona Pandemic. The library has an outreach program. Led by the voluntary Librarian Kelvin Guma, together with other volunteers, books are also taken to some primary schools in the area.

From the beginning, the interest was overwhelming. Both the patrons (the children) and their parents and guardians were attracted to the library like bees to the flowers. The library had to limit the number of users by filtering admission to primary school level students. The fact that the library is equipped with e-book readers (tablets) made it quite unique. It is perhaps the “first” library in Vihiga County to embrace computer technology.

However, there were limitations on the matter of distance. As the word went around more children living further than the normal walking distance showed up to use the facility. Most of these children are from families who cannot afford to pay the fare for their children to travel that distance. So the children trekked sometimes up to two hours to-fro, which meant they had little quality time to read.

Over time the library was also receiving requests from educators from neighbouring schools who took interest in the valuable role played by the library. Some teachers requested if the library could offer mobile library services to their schools.

Investment Needed in Vihiga Libraries

Even as the library was willing to take the library services closer to the users, they are limited by lack of transportation. As the saying goes, if Muhammad cannot go to the mountain, the mountain must come to Muhammad. Not to be discouraged, the volunteers did some brainstorming and came up with a novel way to meet these needs at least halfway. They adopted bicycles (another first) as means for transporting their services to the schools and delivering the library services further into the field. Upon which, the library accepted and started an outreach program for schools in the surrounding areas. As they do not have transport, they use bicycles to take these books to the schools. Other volunteers are Mr. Lung’afa and Sharon Ondego.

However, after the long haul of community service, the physical facilities of the library are in dire need of renovation and equipment. Starting with the torn sign banner outside the building; there is ample need for furniture, including tables and chairs. The library needs more book donations; and with the advancement of technology in most of society’s learning, there is a need for computers.

At Chavakali Centre where this humble library is located, one steps into the citadel of the education history of Kenya. A short distance away is Chavakali Boys’ High School, one of the oldest and best performing schools in Western Kenya. Chavakali High School was started by Chavakali Friends Mission, which was established in 1910 by Yohana Amugune. After the Quakers expanded from Kaimosi Mission Centre, they started the school in 1919 and it grew over time until the secondary school was established in 1959. The school has the longest list of Alumni embedded in every sector of the Kenyan social economy; besides those working and living in the diaspora. I realised that trying to list them would be futile.

Near the library is also the Junction to Eregi, which is established as one of the oldest Teachers Training Colleges in Kenya; and also nests one of the oldest Secondary schools. There are other schools and colleges all over the place.

If those who grew up or were educated at/near Chavakali were to glance back for a few seconds, the needs of this library and the needs of its users would be met at the snap of a finger.